Not so fast…

I didn’t end up in Denali today but stayed in Fairbanks. Not like there was much more to see here but the soccer team at my hostel was playing its championship game and I kinda wanted to see the outcome.

Also, I met this French woman who has a car and she was willing to drive to another local attraction called Pioneer Park, as well as to the second half of the soccer game.

Pioneer Park is a pretty tacky theme park-like place with free museums, some art galleries and nostalgic displays of the Fairbanks that once prospered.

Museums were still closed that early in the day, so we walked around briefly and headed to catch the end of the game.

The soccer team that stayed at my hostel ended up winning 2-1, securing the coveted title of state champs in the youth soccer league. There was cheering and dancing and lots of leftover food for the rest of the hostelers after they left.

It rained for most of the day, so I read, talked with newcomers and hung out with the hostel owner’s dogs.

And someone was passing out homemade smoked salmon, which was incredible. All I needed was a beer!

Once the sun came out, I headed out to town because I wanted to go to a kitchy bookstore before I left.

Ahem…

On the way back, I also stopped by Hot Licks, thus completely exhausting my exploration of Fairbanks’ culinary offerings.

I got half a scoop of kettle corn and half of Alaskan blueberry.

Some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had with pieces of popcorn and blueberries throughout. Now I understand why the line at this place can stretch for a mile on sunny days.

The French woman I hung out with today told me a bit about her travels and she literally has been everywhere in the world that I want to go. She travels for months at a time. Of course, the logical question is what kind of profession allows you to do that?

Turns out that she’s a seasonal worker and is mostly involved in “canning and prunning” of fruits and vegetables. She said it pays well for a short period of time, which means she has months and months to just travel. Her husband is a pipeline testing engineer, so he’s constantly traveling as well. When I asked her about children, she said she didn’t have any because she just wants to travel…Her stories are fascinating and of course I wish I could travel for months at a time. But not having a family because of that? I wouldn’t even think to make that sacrifice. And she’s in her thirties. When I’m that age, I hope I don’t have to stay in noisy hostels filled with youth!

But that said, there’s something so appealing about that sort of freedom, the lack of responsibility, the spontenuity of seeing the world at your own pace and on your own terms.  I hope in the future, I can take a few months off to get lost somewhere for a while.

Quote of the day from a hefty local dude to me: “In Alaska, all men are men and all women are nervous.” 

I haven’t felt threatened yet, unless you consider overly pleasant people threatening. I’ve got plenty of unsolicited advice about what to see in other places on my itinerary and particulars about bear protection. Apparently, I should have a gun or at least some pepper spray with me at all times.

Tomorrow, I’m definitely heading to Denali! My mission for the next three days: local beer and wild life.

Leaving Fairbanks

After a full day in Alaska, I finally feel like I’m here. I’m up early today because I’m leaving my first destination – Fairbanks – for Denali National Park this morning.

First, I need to backtrack to my journey here. I don’t like complaining about flying (I agree with Louis C.K. when it comes to that) but this is worth a mention, especially since it’s entirely my fault. Somehow, I thought it would be a great idea to save some cash on airfare via layovers. I got on my first plane at 2:25 PM and stopped flying and lounging in airports only at 5:30 AM. The devil himself couldn’t come up with a worse flight combination.

By the time I was in my last airport in Seattle, I was starting to lose it. I walked around the airport in circles for a good hour. The cherry on top of my poor planning was the fact that I got into Fairbanks at 2 AM. Why?!

I took a cab to my first hostel and found a note on the door with my name on it and a phone number. I woke up the hostel’s owner, very ready to be shown to my  bed and drift off to the sleep.

When the hostel owner met me, she told me she kind of forgot that I was coming. Nevermind the million “confirmation” emails I sent her…Anyway, she took in a whole soccer team of 14-year-old-boys, who were now sleeping in every available bed in the hostel.

The only thing she had for me is this in the backyard:

Sure, I said. I could’ve slept anywhere at that point…I climbed in with all my stuff and…tried to sleep, except it was 40 degrees and my body was like WHERE IS 90F, I’M UPSET.

I warmed up soon enough but even with the synchronized, soothing snoring of the others coming from the tents near me and the fresh Alaskan air, I couldn’t really sleep that well. But I made it work.

The next morning, the owner asked me how I slept and I told her how cold I was at night in the tent (#whitegirlproblems). She said I could have the couch in the kitchen/living room area the next night and she won’t charge me for sleeping in the tent. So my whole stay at the hostel in Fairbanks cost me only $10. Not bad at all.

Since I only had one day in Fairbanks, I set out to town early in search of food. I’ve heard amazing things about Sourdough Cafe, which is known for it’s sourdough pancakes. Sourdough pancakes to Alaska are what pizza is to New York. People are pretty serious about it.

I also got something truly Alaskan from the meats department: reindeer sausage. This was spicy and really good!

And of course the pancakes, which were incredibly delicious:

After breakfast, I needed to  take care of business and buy groceries for my stay in Denali (they don’t have any stores there, really.) So I walked a bit down the road to find a Fred Meyers. Walked by Chena River, which is pretty.

I then got on a city bus and headed to the University of Alaska – the original flagship campus is in Fairbanks. It reminded me a lot of UMass, a massive campus community nestled in the mountains. One of the best attractions is definitely the recently expanded and renovated museum:

The museum has some cool nature and history exhibits, as well as an awesome collection of local art:

What to do next? My cab driver told me there’s a fair in town, and man, do I love that stuff. So after the university, I headed there.

And of course, had more food.

This was amazing. Shrimp, sour cream and sunflower seeds? Would never think of it but it was very yummy.

Some other highlights:

I was lucky that the fair was in town.  The locals I’ve met here told me if you’ve been on the town bus, you’ve seen the town. And I have.

And my guide book says, “The best part of Fairbanks is leaving Fairbanks.” With the constant buzz of the hyped up soccer team in the hostel and low temperatures, I agree.  The two biggest attractions are the nearby Chena Hot Springs, which I had no interest in. And a visit to the North Pole to see Santa on his home turf. No, thanks.

But that’s not to say I didn’t have a good time. I met many locals, which I really enjoyed. And hell, by the end of the two hazy, sleep-deprived days, I even started to like the bratty soccer team. (They’re playing in the finals  today!)

I am very much looking forward to sleeping in an actual bed and seeing some wildlife in Denali. Hopefully, it’s clear enough to catch a glimpse of the highest mountain in North America – Mt. McKinley.

Peace out, Fairbanks.

To an expensive wilderness

Growing up in Ukraine, we spent a lot of time outdoors.

My mom also believed boyish haircuts suited me well. I have forgiven her.

We’d bring a blanket, enough food to sustain us for at least a week (even though we’d be back in our kitchen by dinner time) and then just hang out, sheltered from civilization by thick pine trees that endlessly stretched into the sky.

We’d roam the surrounding hills and let mosquitoes feast on us. After all, we were intruders in their territory and they had the right to take advantage of our fresh blood.

I knew nothing of bug spray, waterproof hiking boots and unflattering but practical lightweight hiking pants that turn into shorts whenever I get hot.

Today, the eight-year-old me would be surprised by my uncontrollable glee at all the gear at Eastern Mountain Sports. Within this multi-floor store, you’ll find everything you may desire to prevent nature from disrupting any aspect of your personal comfort zone while you’re in her territory.

When did the goal to voluntarily escape modern society become inseparable from first reaffirming your dedication to its consumerism?

I know what you’re thinking.

No one forced me to buy an Osprey Waypoint 85 backpack with a detachable day pack.

And it’s perfectly legal to go without a pair of Vasque Breeze GTX hiking boots in Alaska.

Of course, you’re right. But what would I say to the eight-year-old me who needed no special gear to play in the wild?

Well first, that the world is bigger and scarier when you’re 23. And if you can afford boots that can prevent a twisted ankle when you find yourself closer to bears than humans or a lockable bag to safely store your belongings while you’re more than 3,000 miles from home, it’s a sound investment.

Second, something about gear is calming, almost encouraging. At some point, someone invested their time and effort to think about the ideal shoe for rocky, grassy or steep terrains – they designed it and thoroughly tested it. Having that assurance – even one that may be inflated by clever marketing – is nice when you’re heading somewhere new and completely on your own.

I’m all packed up but I’m still amused by the fact that my luggage includes a bathing suit, as well as a hat and mittens.

Next stop, Fairbanks.